Adventures in India

DAY 01 – MANALI to KAZA

We leave Manali early in the morning after a quick breakfast. We cross the Rohtang Pass and head past the tourist hordes into the Lahaul and Spiti district o­n the Manali Lah highway. Expect a dramatic change of scenery fromm green to desert across the Rohtang Pass.

A short distance later, we take a right off the highway, and follow the road along the Chandra river that takes us into Spiti and stop for lunch at a summer settlement of roadside dhabas at Chhatru.

As we move o­n after lunch, a dusty, journey along the Chandra river captivates us. o­n our right just before Batal, we should be able to see the tail of the Bara Shigri glacier (far above). We cross Batal and climb steeply across the Kunzum Pass. o­n the top of the Pass, there is a recently revamped (but ancient in terms of tradition) temple to the Palden lhamo (Kali).

The road detours from the main "highway" to go around the temple here. It is believed that she protects travellers. Views from here are worth taking a breather from the long drive for. We have the Chandra Bhaga range (popular among climbers) in clear sight. We continue o­n toward Losar with some incredibly stunning mountains (that look rather like someone wiped across a palette full of oilpaint) o­n our left.

We cross the check post at Losar after a quick tea break and are now officially into Spiri (geographically, we entered, when we crossed the Kunzum Pass). The journey now takes us through charming villages with the typical box-like houses and patches of green in an arid land, right until we reach Kaza.

DAY 02 – KAZA – Kye – TABO – KAZA

Today is an easy day to help us unwind from yesterdays tiring journey and to get acclimatized to the gain in altitude.

After breakfast we visit Tabo m onastery. In 1996, the Tabo monastery celebrated its thousand years with a Kalachakra ceremony, which was presided over by His Holiness the Dalai Lama.

Built around the year 996 A.D, in a single night as the myth goes, the Tabo monastery is a shrine to the protectress Wi-nyu-myin, and the oldest Gelugpa monastery in Spiti. Regarded by many as o­nly next to the Tholing monastery in Tibet, the 10 th century Tabo monastery is treasure house of Buddhist scriptures and art – wall paintings, thangkas and stucco (earning it the name “Ajanta of the Himalayas”).

The nondescript exterior of Tabo is in contrast with the magnificent paintings and sculptures preserved in the prayer hall. We return to Kaza for dinner and O/N stay.

DAY 03 – KAZA – KIBBER – RONGOLONG (KWS)

After breakfast we drive to Kibber village. We visit the village and begin trek from village which is an uphill walk to Chomaling meadow 1 ½ hrs walk.  This area is located inside the Kibber Wildlife Sanctuary.

During the trek to this meadow you have chances to view alpine flora, different species of birds and also herds of Blue Sheep. Another 1 hr walk you arrive at Rongolong camping site located beside a small alpine pond  (4500 m). Lunch at Rongolong.

Afternoon – visit Changar (grazing reserve) 1hour walk from campsite for wildlife viewing. You have great chances of spotting the Blue Sheep, Himalayan Weasel,  Red Fox, Tibetan Woolly Hare, Tibetan Wolf and many species of high altitude birds like Horn Larks, Finches, Snow Cocks and Warblers. Overnight camp at Rongolong (4500 m).

After breakfast walk uphill 5 kms to the Sahargibsa pass ( 5050 m).  The trail is initially a steep ascent and then undulating passes. You have good opportunities to observe alpine flora like gentians, asters, astragalus and edelweiss. Also be alert to view herds of Blue Sheep and other wild fauna. After crossing the Sahargibsa pass you arrive at Chulchak meadows (4900 m) where you have beautiful views of the surrounding mountain peaks. This Chulchak meadow is also a good vantage point for sighting wildlife in the ridges and slopes below it.  Have lunch at the meadows.

After lunch walk along the designated trail to Mermuthangka camping site (4450). Be aware to watch for Snow Leopard and Wolf tracks while you can have a feast of bird watching . The trail from Chulchak to Mermuthangka camping site is first a level walk and then downhill.  Along the trail you have good views of the mountain peaks like Shilla peak, Chochokanilda (CCKN) which are above 6000 m.  Mermuthangka camping site is a sprawling beautiful meadow located near the Tashigang village. o­ne can get almost a 300 degree view of the snow capped peaks and the distant rolling hills. This beautiful camping site has also been blessed by His Holiness the IV Dalai Lama who camped at this spot.

From here we drive to Gete and o­nwards to Kaza for overnight stay.

Ok. Enough walking. Today we will visit two of Spiti's ancient Buddhist monasteries and the highest village in the world.

Dromton, a disciple of Atisa, is attributed with the construction of the Kye Monastery in the early 11 th century. The location and architecture of this monastery is fortress like. Over the centuries, the monastery has accumulated a treasure-house of Thangkas (Buddhist Tibetian style paintings), several ancient musical instruments and sacred scriptures.

A feature of the Ki Gompa is its mystical, low-roofed rooms with narrow corridors and dark passages. The “Kutung” is a memorial to the past masters and their incarnations and has a great collection ancient Thangkas and scriptures.

Komik is the highest village in Asia and houses o­ne of the highest Vajrayana Buddhist monasteries in the world. We will visit the Gompa and spend the afternoon at leisure exploring the village.

A short drive away is Langza where we stay overnight at home stays.

DAY 06 – LANGZA – JURELEY

Today we commence our trek into the habitat of the Tibetan Wolf. The trail traverses along a natural fossil center with the opportunity to spot some rare relics of Spiti's geological history. For most of the way we follow carefully laid out irrigation channels, getting an insight into the laborious and intricate system of water management.

This walk is our entry into the habitat of the Tibetan Wolf and from here o­n we start finding the first signs (pug marks and scat) of this unique animal. Various dens of the wolf are also found in the vicinity of this trail and detours to the same are an ideal starting point of getting a first peep into their habitats.The trail runs parallel to the stunning Pasham Range with the peaks of Chau Chau Khang Nilda and Chau Chau Khang Namo forming a striking backdrop. The trail is rich in flora and spotting Blue Sheep is likely. O/N in tents.

DAY 07 – JURELEY – DHOKSA DOGRI/MULCHAY

The trail slowly winds itself over pasturelands and the day is spent marvelling at the magnificence and imposing stature of the grazing yaks and horses.  The night is spent camping at a summer settlement of the villagers. Every year a few of the villagers shift to these settlements for grazing the livestock and the collection of winter fodder and fuel.

Now we are in the heart of the Tibetan Wolf's habitat. The wolf's constantly prowl these alpine pastures and pose a serious threat to the livestock. The locals are extremely wary of this and know exactly where they hide amidst these mountains and also the location of their dens. O/N in tents.

DAY 08 – MULCHAY – DEMUL – DHANKAR

We start our day early in pursuit of the Tibetan Wolf. A slight detour from the trail takes us closer to this animal. A patient wait along the Mulchay plain is likely to reward us with a sighting. With a relatively high population of the Blue Sheep along with livestock, the possibility of sighting the wolf is good. The trail and our trek end at Demul village.

Located in o­ne of the most remote areas of Spiti, Demul village has a very interesting legend associated with its foundation. After visiting Demul we drive to Dhankar, where we stay O/N at homestays.

DAY 09 – DHANKAR – DHANKAR LAKE

Today we attend the pooja (prayer ceremony) and learn about restoration of ancient art at the Dhankar monastery.

We visit the old & new monasteries, the remains of the Dhankhar Fort and a museum of cultural artifacts. Later we take a short uphill hike to the Dhankar lake where we will camp O/N tonight.

The vast alpine grasslands of this region is the perfect grazing ground for the famous Chumurthi horses.

Although they are quite wary of intruders, they can easily be spotted in the distance o­n the highlands above the lake. We spend the rest of the day admiring these magnificent, untamed horses. O/N in tents.

DAY 10 – DHANKAR – CHANDRATAL

Our last day in Spiti begins, but that doesn't mean its time for depression - the lake of the Moon beckons!

Today we visit Chandra Tal, the lake of the moon goddess. The downhill to Dhankar is this morning is quick and we return toward Manali up to a little ahead of Kunzam pass. After crossing Kunzam La (4551 mts) and just before Batal, we take a short detour to Chandra Tal (4270 mts).

The road is bumpy and vehicles need to back up as much as half a kilometer to find a place to pass, so we hope we don't meet other vehicles coming from the opposite side.

Chandra Tal is placed between a low ridge and the main Kunzum range with an outlet into the Chandra river. O/N in tents.

This is o­ne place which is unforgettable. The crystalline beauty of the water is the perfect mirror for the dramatic mountains cocooning it - if there is any place fit for Gods to live, this is it.

DAY 11– CHANDRA TAL – MANALI

Wake up in the morning to see the sun rising over the steel gray of the mountains and their perfect inverted image in the lake, turning the scene into a blaze of colour.

Pitch your tent with care o­n the previous night, and you can see this from your sleeping bag, with the tent flaps open. Our last morning o­n this tour is a morning that will stay alive in our minds as long as we live.

After breakfast we drive to Manali along the now familiar route that we traversed to enter Spiti valley from Manali. The vivid green of the lush Kullu valley comes as a visual shock after all these days of barren terrain, as we descend from the Rohtang into the bustle of Manali town and back into modern civilization.